12

There are several things that can be causing this with different likelihoods. The first thing to check is - are your propellers on correctly? It is an easy mistake to make and always worth a check. The next thing to check is that all of your motors are working correctly. Start by spinning each of the motors by hand and see if anything fella obviously wrong,...


10

Running a receiver without an antenna should not cause any damage to the receiver, as no RF power is sent to the antenna (if your receiver has an active antenna there may be a DC bias present, but this does not cause problems - you will often see this in GPS receivers.) However, for completeness, it is worth noting that some modern RC receivers actually do ...


7

This sounds very much like like a PWM/analog ESC miscalibration issue to me. PWM ESCs required signal calibration to ensure that both the RC receiver and the ESC are on the same page about what kind of pulse length constitutes both 0% and 100%, as there can be clock speed discrepancies and other issues with the protocol. I can't exactly find a source I like ...


6

So this method will vary based on whether they are brushed or brushless motors. For brushed: Spin the propeller with your fingers - is anything actively resisting the motion? If yes, remove the prop and check for something not immediately visible, like a hair or carpet fibres caught around the motor shaft. Remove anything you find and try the prop again. ...


6

It looks like you are missing a piece of the prop adapter. There should be three pieces, the nut, the central shaft with a thread for the nut on one end and a taper on the other, and a collar that matches the taper. You're missing the collar. The nut forces the collar onto the taper, which squeezes the slots together, gripping the shaft. They're normally ...


5

Try lowering your $D$ coefficients by $10$ in each direction. If that doesn’t help, slowly try increasing your $I$ coefficients. [Make sure you first implement (and TEST!) a kill switch any time you are modifying PID terms (particularly $I$ terms) as you can create an unrecoverable flyaway situation!]


5

It looks like a bad phase to me. Check the resistance of each phase, wire 1 to wire 2, wire 2 to wire 3, and wire 1 to wire 3. If one of those is much higher resistance or shows no continuity, then you've got a bad phase. I suspect this is the issue. Also try swapping the motor to a different arm. This will eliminate the ESC as the issue. If the problem ...


4

I fixed it by adding a common ground between the 5v regulator and the flight controller. I can't explain the science behind this, but I took the answer from this video from Painless360 The flickering is completely gone, even when I punch the throttle. New wiring diagram: EDIT: I will leave the post unanswered until someone intelligible explains this, and ...


4

Disclaimer: I don't know anything of the following for sure, so be careful. Be very, very careful. The PID controller itself does not care whether it's a 5 or 10-inch quad. The PID gains, though, do care, and the Betaflight default preset numbers are for something around 5" size. For instance, for a tiny whoop-size quad the gains must typically be raised 3x ...


4

After making sure that you have the RX_Loss beeper disabled, the next port of call would be to check your DShot config. It may not be the beeper that is making the noise - there is a DShot beacon configuration that allows you to set your ESCs to beep in the case of RX_Loss - Id recommend you make sure you have that setting correct. Edit: from your Diff ...


4

In my experience, the causes of this problem are (in order of probability ) One or more propellers are on wrong. One or more motors are spinning in the wrong direction. Flight controller orientation is wrong (mounted facing the wrong direction) Motor order is wrong (ie. physical location of motors 1-4 does not match up with what the flight controller ...


4

The beep from the transmitter indicates that it has linked successfully with the receiver on the drone, so at least part of the board is working. However without detailed knowledge of the design and a range of test tools it will be very hard to trace the fault accurately. Even if you did, you need specialist soldering tools to replace tiny surface mounted ...


3

After a bit of research it seems like the problem is likely to be that you don't have the latest version of the DJI fly app. As per this forum thread you will need version 1.2.4 or later to see the option for 2.7k 60fps. On android you will need to download the latest APK, while on iOS it can be downloaded from the App Store. Links to both version are ...


3

That could also be a lipo that has been over-discharged or for some other reason is just not able to provide as much current as it used to. The way to check (assuming you don't have a 'known-good' battery for comparison) is to measure the voltage when you open the throttle. If it drops below 3v per cell and then cuts, it's definitely the battery. If the ...


3

You mentioned that you tried SBUS, but that receiver only supports PPM and IBUS (not SBUS). Try setting your flight controller to use IBUS. As for the RX getting hot - I'm not sure about that. The photo on banggood shows that it takes VCC, but be careful. The description details indicate that it only accepts 3.3 - 5 volts for voltage. If your using ...


3

The V4 has audio, but I can't find any information about whether or not the V3 has it. I did however see that a manual mentions a VTX audio option in the menu. But since it doesn't say which version, the easiest thing to do would be to see if you can find that option and make sure to turn it on.


3

I know I'm a bit late to the party, but I just had the same problem as you and your solution didn't work unfortunately. What I instead had to do was connect a +5V wire from the regulator to the FC, along with the ground wire that you connected. I wasn't really satisfied with only solving the problem; I wanted to know how the OSD could flicker without ...


3

This can be caused by too much heat building up in the VTX causing the electronics to suffer. Try mounting the VTX to have more airflow around it or put a heat sink on it. Sometimes a VTX just can't handle its own output power. Another issue might be that electronic noise from the VTX is getting fed back into the video signal at the camera or FC ...


2

According to page 36 of the DJI Mavic Air 2 manual the aircraft should be linked to the remote controller on arrival. If not, you should follow these steps: Power on the remote controller and the aircraft. Launch DJI Fly. In camera view, tap (three dots) and select Control and Connect to Aircraft. Press and hold the power button of the ...


2

It appears that this issue where perfectly good and speedy SD cards are declared "slow" in DJI Air Units, as is documented on the DJI product forums. This is an issue for many DJI FPV system users.


2

There are many signs that a brushless motor is broken or getting worn out. Something that can happen to motors that have been used for a long time is their bearings wear out. If you notice that the bell of a motor feels loose or the motor is excessively noisy or has a grinding sound, it is likely worn-out bearings. You can either replace the bearings or buy ...


2

If the motor seems mechanically sound, and the wiring seems OK, first inspect for burnt windings or burnt FETs on the ESC. If the FET has burnt it may burn the 'good' motor, so don't plug a new motor on a 'possibly bad' ESC, unless you are using a smoke stopper to protect the 'good' motor. Same applies in reverse if you connect an 'possibly bad' motor to ...


2

It was the battery. Bought a new battery, charged it, all 3 lights turned green, and motor/esc has no trouble going to full thrust. Lots of power now, so that should really help the plane fly. Problem solved! And on the bright side, I get to tear apart the broken 3s battery and see how to fix it or turn it into a 2s. I'll probably put a question on ...


1

Given that the drone camera is a cheap model from China, I think it's entirely possible that the camera modules is broken and could be outputting incorrectly terminated .avi files. In earlier comments, you explain that no files are created when a known-good SD card is used to record video with the drone. My prior experience with camera modules for cheap ...


1

I have used the FS-i6, it was my first radio. The throttle is generally on the left, and it is generally mode 2. In your case, it doesn't appear to be the case. So it might be useful to check in the transmitter settings if you have channel assigned correctly. You can always see the signals sent to the FC in the Mission planner Setup tap under RC calibration. ...


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