Hot answers tagged

20

You should dispose of them. A LiPo battery has three parts: the anode (negative plate), the cathode (positive plate), and electrolyte (sandwiched in between the two plates). Electricity is formed by electrons moving from the cathode to the anode through the electrolyte (which helps the electrons flow). The electrolyte decomposes over time, which results in ...


13

In the UK a drone would almost certainly be considered WEEE waste (Waste Electrical and Electronic Equipment.) You can take WEEE waste to your local waste handling/recycling facility; alternatively, there are "Take back Schemes" where some distributors will accept WEEE waste. This is often geared more towards white goods (fridges, washing machines, etc.); ...


12

The risk of a puffy battery exploding during storage is still comparatively low, you shouldn't underestimate it however. During charging the risk of explosion is at its peak. This is also the reason why you charge your batteries slower than you discharge them (i.e. to lower the risk of puffing and explosions, as well as to keep wear and tear low). During use,...


11

A bit of a frame challenge here... but you could try to sell it for parts or give it away at no cost to someone who wants to try repairing it. This keeps it out of landfills / recycling depots, and may help others as well. There are all sorts of websites around on which you can list things like this (Craigslist, Kijiji, etc).


11

The best option is to break it down and separate the parts into the following: carbon (frame, frame parts) plastic metal parts (screws, standoffs) wire electronics (flight controller, ESC, motors, camera, VTX, RX) batteries Once the drone is broken down into these items, contact your local waste management and recycling centers to determine how to hand the ...


8

"Puffed" batteries are both more and less dangerous. I am drawing from over 10,000 FPV flights where I beat the mortal sh*t out of lipos and also from over 3000 battery charges I have logged and analyzed (I built an app for that). I read the other comment and that person knows their chemistry. I will try to balance that information with real world ...


8

In most cases, you're going to do everyone a huge favor by removing the liPo batteries and taking them to a place where they can be recycled or disposed of safely. In the US, there are many locations that will accept lipo batteries. Call2Recycle is probably the largest (they work with many major retailers that sell liPo batteries). As far as the rest... ...


7

Assuming that you've spec'ed a good propeller-motor match and the heat isn't generated by a tiny motor being forced to drive a giant propeller, the heat generation is likely due to a physical issue with the drone, mistaken filter settings, or a tight PID tune. First of all, it's a good idea to determine whether your motors are actually hot enough to matter. ...


6

The primary thing that high torques affect in a brushless motor is the current flowing through. It obviously affects your ESCs, but also the motors themselves: high currents have been known to melt/burn the insulation on motor windings, which then short out and wreck the motor itself and possibly the ESC as well. If the source of this torque is just a prop,...


5

In this situation, I would approach the other flyer(s) to say hello and discuss this with them to prevent misunderstandings or differences of opinion - for example, if the other flyer is new they might want much larger separation than you think is enough, whereas if you are both experienced you might be happy flying in close quarters. Also, it might make ...


4

Regulation only says that a drone shouldn't be "flown in a way that could be dangerous to people," so it's really up to you. I recommend staying fairly far away just to prevent any possible accidents but it is ultimately up to how confident you are in your piloting skills and what you feel comfortable doing without the drone "being flown in a way that could ...


4

Like you said in your answer, it does depend on the ESC... so you definitely want to look into the specifications for your particular components. However, to be safe, a good rule of thumb suggested on this forum is that you want to be able to put your finger on it without discomfort for five seconds. If your reflex is to withdraw after only 2 seconds, ...


4

I feel like it's important enough to mention this to create a new answer even though there's a ton of good information here already, as you mention it's the transient currents that kill ESCs. To be perfectly honest we're well within the rating of even 20A (25A 10 second burst) ESCs in terms of sustained current draw on almost any setup you can imagine. It's ...


3

With a larger prop the load on the motor increases. It's possible you'd need an ESC with a slightly higher amp rating, but also be aware that you may burn out your motor too. It's best to choose your motor based on your prop size, and then pick an ESC to match that motor.


3

There are a few things that may be happening. Tighter and flying bad screams bad mounting. A prototype I was working on last week had this problem. As I tightened the motor, the c-clip on the base was rubbing on the arm and slowing down. Loosen the screw and it spins faster. To check for this, take the motor off and spin it with your hand and get a feel for ...


3

Use red or better. Blue and sub-red are explicitly designed to loosen with low to medium heat. (in the manual) FWIW, thread lock is little more than an increasingly heat resistance paint, close in composition to latex paint (depending on the brand). I have used latex paint and also nail polish in a pinch (an old trick from a car mechanic). If you want a ...


2

According to Wikipedia, threadlockers like 3M Loctite work by using a special fluid that resists movement of the bolt to which it's applied by increasing static friction. They're produced in different strengths, often denoted by color codes by purple → blue → red. (in ascending order of maximum strength) Here are a couple of things you could try that come to ...


2

It really depends on the ESC. Different ESC's have different ratings. Many ESCs would perform best under 85°C and some microcontrollers work better if under 70°C. But there are ESCs that can work just fine with hotter temperatures. For example, Castle Creations ESCs can handle a sustained 70-82°C and will have issues around 100°C but most ESCs will have ...


2

Yes, it likely will require an ESC with a higher current rating. As a general rule of thumb, if it takes more work to spin a propeller, the ESC needs to be capable of safely providing more power. Larger and more aggressively pitched propellers will require more work to spool up and maintain speed because they displace more air per revolution (and have more ...


1

As far as I can tell, after doing some digging, There are a few things to consider when boosting a Caddx Vista to 1200mw. First, the Caddx Vista tends to get hotter that the DJI air unit, so heat is one thing to consider. If the drone is flying, there should be enough airflow to dissipate the heat, so 1200mw shouldn't cause any overheating issues. Just make ...


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