A major consideration is weight reduction; if material can be removed without significantly reducing the strength of the item, this will result in an increased payload or flight duration. This is particularly evident in the motor arms of the product you linked, as the triangular shapes are renowned for their relative strength.
Another advantage of this is ...
The main things you need are a motor, battery, electronic speed controller (ESC) and servos.
The ESC sits between the battery and motor, and it also has a thinner cable that goes to the receiver. The wires from ESCs are often labelled, but if not, there will be two big wires on one end that are the input from the battery (red for positive, black for negative)...
There are different ways, but a common one is to put a light bulb in series with the positive battery lead.
This works because it will allow low currents through to power the flight controller, but if there is a surge in current from a short the bulb will light up and sap away the energy.
You need to make sure you have a light bulb rated for the voltage ...
You use one of the provided rubber rings to attach the propeller to the motor. The 2 protruding screws with their heads are the anchor points for the rubber before it is wrapped over the prop to the other screw.
The propeller motor connection is not rigid but has a little give and comes loose on impact, hopefully saving the propeller and the motor that way.
Without disassembling the motor, and figuring out how the ESC is designed, there is no other way then simply testing it.
From my experience, the motors spinning clockwise has usually been the ones that can be wired without crossing any wires and without having to reverse the direction. But that could just be a coincidence, so you should definitely not trust ...
It looks like you are missing a piece of the prop adapter.
There should be three pieces, the nut, the central shaft with a thread for the nut on one end and a taper on the other, and a collar that matches the taper. You're missing the collar.
The nut forces the collar onto the taper, which squeezes the slots together, gripping the shaft. They're normally ...
How about the thin white polythene/polyethylene from carrier bags or bin liners? I think you could stick it on with a foam-safe contact adhesive such as UHU POR.
Alternately, you can save weight from your Tiny Trainer by peeling the paper off the foam.
It sounds like what you really want to build is an old fashioned balsa model, covered in tissue and dope. ...
The control radio will probably only interfere with the WiFi adapter when it's within a meter or two. Once the drone is flying the signal will be weaker and the error handling should be good enough to handle it.
However the opposite is also true. Once flying, any transmissions from the WiFi antenna on the drone will still be really close to your receiver and ...
You can always run an older version of betaflight. Also, if you have older F3 controllers you may also like to like to look at https://github.com/spatzengr/betaflight/releases which are maintained by UAV Tech.
I have used these on some older F3 boards and it breathes new life into these old boards.
Unfortunately it really seems to be a personal preference thing.
I tried logging the same move on both pitch and roll on a stretched x frame to determine exactly how much difference there was and I couldn't find any difference in the results.
Stretched x are generally preferred for racing, but Thomas Bitmatta decided on squished x for his JS-1 frame.
The necessary electronic components: Transmitter & receiver, ESC, motor, servos. (yes, it really is that simple)
How they are linked together: basically; battery plugs into ESC input, ESC plugs into receiver, servos plug into receiver, and motor plugs into the ESC output.
The construction of a fixed wing can be fairly ...
The image below shows a fairly basic fixed wing electronic configuration. Depending on your design you might not need it all, and for more complicated builds with flaps and retractable gear you would want more, but I think it is a good overview.
For the most part, you should not need to solder; most hobby electronics comes with common connectors pre-fitted ...
As for EAA - No. They seem to be politically on the good side of drone (anti-RID / Docket ID FAA-2019-1100). They do not mention any CBO (community based organization) direction searching the site. They are Oshkosh based, a legacy aviation mecca for stunt flight. Their agenda is legacy (general) aviation and like the AOPA they are likely looking for money ...
The Matek PDB has a 5V regulator and this can be used to power the fc.
Just wire the PDB to one of the unused ESC plugs on the FC. The FC has solder pads for 6 ESCs (right on the picture) and for a quad you usually only need 4. So the connectors 1-4 are used for the escs and you can use 5 or 6 for the PDB.
The center pin (with + above) is 5V and the outer ...
Since only you can be the judge of what you feel is too loud, and noise level from a drone is the result of many parts working together, this is a tough question to answer and I'm not sure you will succeed in finding "the" prop to suit your needs. That said, if reduced noise is what you are looking for, and we remove the other parts of the drone from the ...
A small scale power supply with over-current protection also works well.
The type to get are little cheap build yourself units, with a display that allows you to adjust output voltage and display output current.
They can be powered from a lipo.
They are useful for a whole bunch of things, but in the smoke stopper situation they go to max current and that'...
There are two problems to mitigate here - incorrect polarity and overcurrent - which have different solutions but can be used together.
To protect against a battery being connected backwards you need to add a diode in series with the battery. This will cause a voltage drop - from 0.7V to 1.4V depending on the diode - and will need to be rated to handle the ...
From a strict RF standpoint there will be some interference. This would occur if the RC and Wi-Fi were near the same frequencies, transmitting at the same time, some phase relationship and etc.
The worst case would be operating at the extreme end of the range (distance) where one transmitter is driving hard and the other receiver is getting overdriven. This ...
Radio systems that claim to be "2.4 GHz" don't actually operate on EXACTLY 2.4 GHz. They have different channels a short distance apart.
For example, nRF24 transmitters have an active frequency range of 2400 MHz to 2525 MHz, giving it 125 5-MHz channels.
Many devices will switch to a different channel if interference is detected.
The starting point is working out the speed of air through your rotor disk(s). This air starts stationary at some point above the disk, and is pushed down by the disk. The force required to accelerate the air is what lifts a helicopter, and you can modify the usual Force = Mass * Acceleration equation to Force = Mass per second * change in speed to work out ...
I wonder if you might have luck with plastic wrap? (Also known as 'cling film' or 'saran wrap'.)
You could wrap multiple layers for extra strength and can apply with a little tension to keep it taut; getting a wrinkle-free aerodynamic surface might be fiddly but it would probably fly well enough.
This has all of the items needed to build a drone.
Remote Control and Receiver
Motors - 4
Electronic Speed Controllers - 4
Propellers - 2 CW, 2 CCW
Assemble it and you will need a battery to fly it.
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!
Sorry, but soldering to tiny pads is unavoidable when building a quad, especially with a tiny 2.5" quad. (unless you buy one with the receiver already installed, and never need to replace anything)
I think that that receiver comes with solder pads and the option of adding a socket for that wire, or just soldering wires directly to the board. The web ...
As a designer and manufacturer of frames here's my experience (6+ years, 10,000 flights, FPV only, 107 pilot w/HAM)
True-X: If you build well and balance your load these will fly in a symmetrical fashion on roll/pitch. If you set your rotation to 900 degree/sec (my normal) then roll and pitch (freestyle) will be similar in duration, stick movement, and hand-...
I don't have any models from this site, but it appears from their product descriptions that they have what you're looking for on themotorpool.net. They have a plethora of models of all nationalities, classes, and time periods.
For example, their Bf 110E-2 model is described as having "spinning propellers"
and the "ability to display the model with landing ...
There are two reasons to throttle limit, one is obvious, the other is not necessarily obvious.
The first reason is that both thrust and amperage draw grow rapidly at higher throttle values, and particularly because of the interaction of battery sag and the wattage motors will pull at the top end, it is possible to exceed the amperage of battery and ...
The reason why this is recommended for racers is likely due to the fact that during these high-throttle punches, the voltage of the battery sags from the load and so more current is pulled from the battery to increase the motor RPM.
Power is equal to VI when V is voltage and I is current, which can be rewritten (by substitution of Ohm's law V = IR in for V) ...
Librepilot may be able to do what you want. I had it running an old CC3D board recently until I burned it into a parking lot at high speed. I prefer Betaflight so far, but I haven't really explored either all that much yet.